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Staff writer
“To ferment your own food is to lodge a small but eloquent protest… against the homogenization of flavors and food experiences now rolling like a great, undifferentiated lawn across the globe.”
So wrote American journalist and food historian Michael Pollan in 2013’s “Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation.” Indeed, as I tasted for myself on an October visit to a dozen miso, shoyu and sake producers in the north-central Hokuriku region, there is a dazzling diversity in traditional Japanese fermentation, not only in the types of foods it can create but in the bewildering variety of flavors in still-fermenting substrates.
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